Cafeteria Plan at the Works
[Tim DuRoche]
I cried for madder music and for stronger wine,
But when the feast is finished
and the lamps expire. . .
the night is thine”

–Ernest Dowson
I was intrigued by the “curatorial” notion of Michael and Naomi Hebberoy’s Cafeteria—inviting the best of the region’s top-shelf, papered chefs to take part in a bit of method acting. Premise: use your refined culinary know-how and wed it (possibly shotgun style) to the venerable tradition of the American cafeteria—surprise us with your own take on the slop-and-drop. Good sports all, the list includes an impressive coterie, including Philippe Boulot from The Heathman, Vitaly Paley from Paley’s Place, Morgan Brownlow from clarklewis, Pascal Sauton from Carafe, Michael Clancy from Giorgio’s, and Josh Blythe from ROUX.

Item #: MJM215000108 MMF Industries/Single Roll Tickets [Blue]
Friday, 09/09: Ticket Number 8764100
Chef: Kenny Giambalvo
(An auteur who “[does] as little as possible to bring out the greatness and then stop[s].”)
Item: Meatball Sandwich.
Annotation: I agree with Chef Kenny, I was hungry and it was just like “Mama used to make.” If it wasn’t 3 am in Minneapolis, I’d call my mother (again—it’s her birthday) and tell her so.
Saturday, 09/10: Ticket Number 8764157
Chef: Vitaly Paley of Paley’s Place
(One of the better meals I remember having in Portland was at Paley’s Place. While I perused the menu, I turned to the table next to us, the quarters are cozy, and asked how the young hen was. . .and was created with a rather haughty, “the poussin is exquisite)
Item: BLT sandwich
Annotation: Thick slabs of bacon surrounded by what I’m guessing is a Black Krim tomato (or some purlple heirloom variety) on great, thick “Texas” toast (from Ken’s, maybe?). Best damn sandwich I’ve had in eons. . .always seems like they’re better one someelse makes them.
Regret: Didn’t try the truffled macaroni and cheese. Anyone out there throw down for it?
I’ll be back for thirds.
–Tim DuRoche